Volume IV · Field Notes · MMXXIV

The Keepers' Index

A catalogue of eight lighthouses built to mark the hardest edges of Britain and Ireland, with notes on their engineering, their keepers, and the turning of their lights.

There is no more honest architecture than a lighthouse. A cathedral argues with heaven; a palace argues with history; a factory argues with labour. A lighthouse argues only with the water, and the water, in the end, wins. The eight towers in this index — built between 1796 and 1904, on reefs and headlands from the Scillies to the Firth of Forth — represent a particular kind of stubbornness: men who believed that granite and glass could keep a conversation with the sea going for a century or more. Most of them were right.

The Index

Region
Light character
Era
Appearance

Eddystone

Built
1882
Eng.
Douglass
Height
49 m

Four towers have stood on this reef. The fourth, Douglass's granite needle, has held longest — a column of interlocking stone screwed into wave-worn rock.

Open plate for Eddystone

Bell Rock

Built
1811
Eng.
R. Stevenson
Height
35 m

Eleven miles off Arbroath, Robert Stevenson's first great tower rises from a reef submerged at every spring tide. The workmen lived aboard a tender and rowed in at low water, racing the sea.

Open plate for Bell Rock

Skerryvore

Built
1844
Eng.
A. Stevenson
Height
48 m

Alan Stevenson considered this his finest work — a hyperboloid of Tiree granite, elegant where the Bell Rock was merely stout. Twelve men spent seven winters cutting it out of the sea.

Open plate for Skerryvore

Bishop Rock

Built
1858
Eng.
J. Walker
Height
49 m

The westernmost rock of the Isles of Scilly, and for Guinness a long time the smallest island in the world with a building on it. The first tower — iron-legged — was washed away before the lamp was ever lit.

Open plate for Bishop Rock

Fastnet

Built
1904
Eng.
W. Douglass
Height
54 m

Ireland's Teardrop — the last piece of home the emigrant ships saw before the Atlantic. The present tower, of Cornish granite, replaced an earlier cast-iron column the sea had frightened the keepers out of.

Open plate for Fastnet

Flamborough Head

Built
1806
Eng.
Smail
Height
26 m

Not a sea-swept rock but a chalk cliff — four hundred feet of it — with a white tower perched on top, a steady fixed light for the colliers running coal down the coast to London.

Open plate for Flamborough Head

South Stack

Built
1809
Eng.
D. A. Williams
Height
28 m

Built on a sea-stack off Holyhead, reached by a basket slung across a forty-metre chasm, later by a chain bridge, later still by the four hundred steps visitors descend today.

Open plate for South Stack

Longstone

Built
1826
Eng.
J. Darling
Height
26 m

Best known for its keeper's daughter. In September 1838 Grace Darling rowed out with her father to the wreck of the Forfarshire and saved nine lives, becoming the most famous woman in Britain overnight.

Open plate for Longstone

The Tower and the Sea

To write about lighthouses is, inevitably, to write about failure. Every tower in the index exists because some earlier arrangement — a beacon fire on a headland, a buoy chained to a reef, a lantern in a church tower — failed to keep the ships off. The light at the Lizard had to be built twice over before anyone got it right. The first Eddystone was blown away; the second burned; the third was taken apart stone by stone; the fourth is the one we have. To catalogue these towers is to catalogue the sea's opinions about architecture, and those opinions are rarely kind.

Engineering at the edge

What the Stevensons and Douglasses really invented was a way of working on a rock that the sea would not let you stand on. The method was identical from Smeaton's Eddystone to Fastnet: cut a few feet of level floor at low water, bolt a temporary barrack to it, and then — with a crew living offshore in a tender and rowing in at the turn of the tide — cut and fit each granite course with such precision that it interlocked with the one below, dovetail and joggle, so that the tower became a single stone, a mass the sea could pull on but never prise apart.

The engineering was genuinely new. Smeaton's Narrative of 1791, the book that made this kind of work imaginable, was the first account of a marine structure designed by calculation rather than tradition, and every lighthouse built after him is in some way his descendant. The Stevensons made the method their family business across four generations; they were to the sea-washed tower what the Stradivari were to the violin.

On the keepers

The automation of the last manned British lighthouse, the North Foreland, happened in 1998, which means the keeping of a light is now historical in the way that the shoeing of horses is historical. For most of its life the job was unglamorous to the point of asceticism: three men in a stone room, winding a clockwork weight, trimming a wick, polishing a lens, reading the weather, watching for ships, not speaking much. Regulations forbade gambling, fighting, and — in some years — women on the rock. Wives and children were a shore-side proposition.

What remains in the archives are logbooks. They are, as documents, almost unbearably dull — a daily record of wind, weather, oil burned, ships passed. And then, without warning, a page will tear open: a wreck sighted, a boat put out, a body washed in, a keeper's mind broken by the long watch. The logbook of the Flannan Isles keepers in December 1900 stops, mid-entry, and does not resume. The men are still missing.

On optics

Before Augustin Fresnel, a lighthouse burned whatever would burn — coal, wood, tallow candles, an argand lamp if you were lucky — and threw the light where it would go. A mirror behind the flame caught some of what leaked backward and sent it out, dimmer, in the general direction of the sea. The efficiency was roughly one part in ten. Fresnel's lens, announced in 1822, changed this to four parts in five. It was a stepped bulls-eye of prismatic glass that bent the stray horizontal rays forward, so that a single flame became a blade of light on the horizon, visible twenty miles out and sometimes more.

The character of the light — fixed, flashing, group-flashing, occulting — was a matter of rotating the optic. A single-panel lens turned once a minute produced one flash. A four-panel lens twice a minute produced a group of four. Mariners learned the signatures the way one learns the voices of neighbours, and could name a light by how it breathed in the dark. The signatures in this index are those used today, most of them unchanged from the day the tower was first commissioned.